|Rough old framing...|
|...Is tight-grained Douglas Fir|
I drew out a nice cyma and made a hardboard pattern. I then traced that out on the pieces and shaped them to the line with bandsaw, spindle sander, and some hand tools to clean up the details. I attached them to the underside of the table top with metal figure 8 connectors to allow for movement.
|Final shaping of the battens|
|5/4 Cherry breadboard stock|
I used a router with a 3/4" straight bit and clamped the cherry end board as a straightedge to cut a long rabbet 1-1/2" wide x ~5/16" deep down the entire length of the end on each side, leaving a single huge tenon 3/8" thick.
With dividers, I marked out six 2" wide sections to leave full length and cut the material between to leave a 1/2" tongue, using a coping saw and sharp chisel. Then I marked out the location of the 1-1/2" mortises from the tenons on the top and made those with a 3/8" auger bit followed by some chisel work. The depth gauge in the lower left of the photo is very handy when checking mortises. That one is a General 444 that I found at a garage sale for a couple bucks. I usually set it to my tenon length plus 1/32" or so and slide it along as a go/no-go gauge. A small high spot somewhere in the bottom of a mortise can be a real hassle.
Test fitting and tuning the tenons with a rabbet block plane got the ends in place. I tend to make my mortises, cut my tenons a hair fat, and tune the joint by adjusting them if necessary. I'm going to radius the ends, but not until final assembly.
A couple of suggestions: take a small piece of scrap and put the same dado as in the end piece. You can see the one I made from a chunk of 2x6 in one of the photos. Then you can go along and test that dado against all the individual parts of the top until you get the same fit everywhere. Trying to test fit the whole thing at once doesn't really work because you can't tell where it's tight for sure. Leaving the stock over length is very very handy when it comes time to knock the end off during final fitting - otherwise there's no place to apply the mallet to remove it and you're kind of stuck.