|Top all glued up. This is the underside - the top has slightly fewer defects.|
There's around 3/16" of cup across one end, and 1/8" at the other. Cumulative errors of all the jointed surfaces show that I made a systematic error while jointing, since the whole top curves the same way. Or maybe it was the way I clamped it during glue up. I can flex it flat pretty easily with a couple of clamps and a piece of lumber, and I know a top this size will move some on it's own even if I planed it perfectly flat now in it's unrestrained state. I'm not entirely sure how to proceed though. How flat does it need to be before I put the breadboard ends on and screw stringers underneath to get it the rest of the way?
Here's the plan. I'm going to plane the bottom side with my #4 smoother and jack. That won't straighten it fully, just level the joints and smooth the surface. Then I'll install the breadboard ends and attach the stringers with figure-eight connectors, as it will be when the table is assembled. Thus, all the physical flattening devices will be on, and I can use my long planes to get the top properly flat so it looks good. As long as I don't feel like things are super stressed out when I assemble it, I think this will be ok. And like I keep telling myself - worst case, I blew $40 worth of framing lumber.
The rest of the table plan is still a little fluid, but will look something like the Sketchup rendering below. I picked up a 5/4 cherry board to make the breadboard ends and butterfly patches for a couple of spots on top, and I'm going to use walnut for a few small bits like the breadboard pins and the wedge that will hold the trestle together.
|A fairly standard trestle table design|